Day 39, April 13: Lafayette to St. Francisville, LA

84 of 84 miles

There were several interesting interludes today that helped to break up the tedium of long mileage through farmland and flat terrain. We traversed French-influenced Louisiana, with road names such as La Rue France and La Jaune Roads. About mid-ride we crossed a very high bridge over the Atchafalaya River, a dark muddy color from the spring runoff. Immediately after, we encountered the Morganza Spillway, a 3.5 mile, two-lane bridge over wetlands with no shoulder. The plan devised in advance by the trip leader called for the SAG wagon to follow behind the group of paired riders to discourage anxious vehicles from passing hastily or cutting riders off. It would have been interesting to have a video of the whole production, and it went off flawlessly.

The severe weather that moved through the area yesterday was largely gone. However, around noon, the sky to the east blackened and we could see sheets of rain falling in the distance. Around the next curve in the road, a large farm came into view and we made a beeline for the barn where a number of farmhands were busy with their projects. Perfect timing, as it rained heavily for several minutes. Where, yesterday, we passed primarily crawfish farms and rice fields, here the crops are sugar cane and sweet potatoes.

Soon we were on our way again, none the worse for wear, and anxiously anticipating the lunch stop at Not Your Mama’s Café. We were not disappointed. I shared a crawfish Po’Boy with Lois and had a taste of Jan's crawfish etoufee that was perfectly spiced and generously portioned.

The next highlight was the ferry over the Mississippi River which runs on the quarter and three-quarter hour. It was 15 miles from the lunch stop and I conservatively allotted 90 minutes to account for photo ops and water sips. A few miles into the ride, it became clear to me that I had a decent tailwind and I could conceivably make the earlier boat. However, if I miscalculated, I would sit in the hot sun for almost a half hour until the next ferry. I went into sprint mode for about 10 miles and made the earlier boat with a minute of two to spare. Rarely do I move so quickly. The crossing of the Mississippi was one of the key moments I will remember from this journey—so much more interesting to cross on a ferry than over a bridge.

The nearest bridges to this crossing are 25 miles in one direction and 60 miles in the other. A bridge connecting New Roads to St. Francisville is currently under construction with an expected completion date of 2010. It is likely that the ferry will be discontinued at that time. A shame, and sure to change the charm of the towns on both sides of the river.