Day 41, April 15: St. Francisville to Hammond, LA

0 of 87 miles—SAG driver

Since I didn’t ride my bike today and the scenery was rather sketchy, it might be a good time to venture into discussion of the responsibilities that consume the time and thoughts of the SAG driver.

Example one, finding a perfect SAG stop. Now, some might think this to be a rather trivial detail. However, there are many things to consider. First and foremost, is there a place to relieve one self, preferably a public restroom, but a large tree will do? Can the riders easily see the SAG wagon? Are there menacing dogs about or fire ant mounds to wander into? Is the site scenic or does it have any other redeeming features? Is the mileage location close to the expectations of the riders?

I’m here to report that I failed on virtually all measures for my first SAG stop today. I parked the wagon on what appeared to be a quiet dirt road in front of a volunteer fire department. What I didn’t realize was that the dirt road led to the local gravel and sand pit with huge trucks going in and out at an alarming rate and speed. It also happened to be immediately adjacent to a very large Louisiana State penitentiary. And, to top it off, there were no obvious micturation spots other than between the passenger and rear car doors, a fact that doesn’t bother a good number of people.

I had a couple of trucks from the prison come to pay me a visit. They were satisfied to learn that I had no firearms in my vehicle and went on their way. Up the gravel road, I saw a cloud of dust as a loaded truck barreled toward us. Suddenly the truck pulled to a stop and the driver hopped out and introduced himself. His name was Jimmy, from Zachary, LA. Jimmy was interested in hearing all about our journey and, as is usually the case, he had several riders more than willing to fill him in on the details. Someone asked him if he could recommend a place in Zachary to have lunch. Jimmy’s reply was that he’s just a country boy and doesn’t eat out much. I insisted on getting a picture of Jimmy with his rig, and told him that his photo would be on the internet. He assured me that he would check it out. A sweet man.


Because today was a high-mileage riding day, it was a long day for me. On such days, riders are spread over long distances, and I track their progress to assure their safety and to ensure that they are adequately supplied with water and snacks. On my first pass through Watson, I checked out this crawfish joint and began to hallucinate about what a great lunch I would have today. It was not to be as there was simply no time for lunch.

SAG drivers also help to clarify route directions that might not match those provided on the cue sheet. My third SAG stop was at the turn for Mary Kinchen Road. Since the sign for said road was buried in the ditch, I parked the wagon at the turn so riders wouldn’t miss it.

A reporter from the local paper joined us for dinner tonight. She had run into Jan and Marni today at a strawberry stand, agreed to deliver the berries they had purchased to the hotel, and brought an additional flat as well. She also interviewed several riders who are raising funds for various causes.

Another duty of the SAG driver is to restock the wagon for the next day’s use, a relatively straightforward task. However, there are two five-gallon water coolers that need to be refilled with water and ice, then lugged from the hotel to the wagon—easily my least favorite part of the job. And, on a really long day like today, it’s hard to muster up the energy to get it done until after dinner. Tonight I lucked out. Dave, from Dallas, was just finishing his workout in the hotel gym as I ventured into the lobby in quest of the ice machine. He insisted on carrying the filled coolers. I gave him a “tour” of the SAG wagon. Thanks, Dave.

Then the cycle repeats. Three days of riding, one day of SAG-ing, with a rest day sprinkled in about once a week.

Day 40, April 14: St. Francisville, LA

21 of 21 miles—Rest Day

St. Francisville is a lovely place to spend a rest day with many nicely restored homes in its historic district and several antebellum homes open to the public. I stayed in a small B&B in town with a few other riders, while most of the group were in cottages at the Butler-Greenwood Plantation, still in the same family after more than 200 years.

Most of us avoid use of our bikes on the rest day. Today it was a necessity to do so as it was the only transportation available. The miles today will help to compensate for the high wind days when I missed a few.

The Grace Episcopal Church dates from 1827. It was shelled during the Civil War and restored in the 1880’s.


The Oakley Plantation was established in 1806 by the Pirrie family when the area was part of Spanish West Florida. In 1821 they hired J.J. Audubon to come to Oakley to tutor their daughter. Although he stayed at Oakley less than four months, he painted 32 of his Birds of America there, many of which hang in the museum and main house.

Bathtub

Gus, quite the handsome fellow

The entrance to this private home is stately.

Butler-Greenwood Plantation

Day 39, April 13: Lafayette to St. Francisville, LA

84 of 84 miles

There were several interesting interludes today that helped to break up the tedium of long mileage through farmland and flat terrain. We traversed French-influenced Louisiana, with road names such as La Rue France and La Jaune Roads. About mid-ride we crossed a very high bridge over the Atchafalaya River, a dark muddy color from the spring runoff. Immediately after, we encountered the Morganza Spillway, a 3.5 mile, two-lane bridge over wetlands with no shoulder. The plan devised in advance by the trip leader called for the SAG wagon to follow behind the group of paired riders to discourage anxious vehicles from passing hastily or cutting riders off. It would have been interesting to have a video of the whole production, and it went off flawlessly.

The severe weather that moved through the area yesterday was largely gone. However, around noon, the sky to the east blackened and we could see sheets of rain falling in the distance. Around the next curve in the road, a large farm came into view and we made a beeline for the barn where a number of farmhands were busy with their projects. Perfect timing, as it rained heavily for several minutes. Where, yesterday, we passed primarily crawfish farms and rice fields, here the crops are sugar cane and sweet potatoes.

Soon we were on our way again, none the worse for wear, and anxiously anticipating the lunch stop at Not Your Mama’s Café. We were not disappointed. I shared a crawfish Po’Boy with Lois and had a taste of Jan's crawfish etoufee that was perfectly spiced and generously portioned.

The next highlight was the ferry over the Mississippi River which runs on the quarter and three-quarter hour. It was 15 miles from the lunch stop and I conservatively allotted 90 minutes to account for photo ops and water sips. A few miles into the ride, it became clear to me that I had a decent tailwind and I could conceivably make the earlier boat. However, if I miscalculated, I would sit in the hot sun for almost a half hour until the next ferry. I went into sprint mode for about 10 miles and made the earlier boat with a minute of two to spare. Rarely do I move so quickly. The crossing of the Mississippi was one of the key moments I will remember from this journey—so much more interesting to cross on a ferry than over a bridge.

The nearest bridges to this crossing are 25 miles in one direction and 60 miles in the other. A bridge connecting New Roads to St. Francisville is currently under construction with an expected completion date of 2010. It is likely that the ferry will be discontinued at that time. A shame, and sure to change the charm of the towns on both sides of the river.

Day 38, April 12: Lake Charles to Lafayette, LA

25 of 83 miles

A severe weather front moved through the area today with high winds, pelting rain, hail, lightening, and tornado warnings. After 25 miles in stiff headwinds with very strong gusts, I loaded my bike on the van and jumped in just as the raindrops began to pick up with ominous clouds on the horizon ahead.

Under other conditions, the route would have been quite scenic as the country roads passed through farmland, primarily rice fields and crawfish farms. In its own way, it was eerily beautiful, reminding me of how I enjoy watching the weather move in from the west from our hilltop in New Hampshire.

The positive aspect of a biking day cut short is an early arrival at the hotel. Being Easter Sunday, most businesses were in lock down mode. However, we did find a restaurant open for Easter buffet. I particularly enjoyed the corn crab bisque.

Day 37, April11: Silsbee, TX to Lake Charles, LA

78 of 78 miles

First, a word or two to add from yesterday. A reporter from the Silsbee newspaper came by to interview several of us about the ride. Unfortunately for him, he arrived at the appointed dinner hour and he had to compete with the stampeding masses headed to the chow line. At least he caught us in a typical moment. We do tend to take our dinner quite seriously.


For the next three days we are on a route new to Womantours and, we learned at the get-go, some of the cue sheet mileage estimations are sketchy. Virtually the entire group made a turn too early first thing this morning resulting in an interesting portage of bikes and persons through tall grass (snake-infested, for the sake of the story,) and over railroad tracks. Back on route, we finally exited Texas to discover the joys of Louisiana.

While the roads in Louisiana are not chip seal, a huge improvement over Texas, they are poorly maintained and littered with trash. There are frequent and sometimes long bridges over bayous and marshy areas with no road shoulders, of concern given the number of large pickup trucks. I did, however, pass several patches of these beautiful spider lilies.

Tomorrow is Easter Sunday so, “God help us”, perhaps most people will be in church for a good portion of the day. The weather prediction is not good, with rain and severe thunderstorms likely, so I will be making decisions about safety conditions periodically as the day progresses.

Day 36, April 10: Cleveland to Silsbee, TX

0 of 64 miles—SAG driver

This was the last of 20 days in Texas. The terrain is flat, the trees are predominantly pine, the roads are runway straight and filled with logging trucks, the towns are rough and tumble, and it is beginning to get southern hot and humid.

The photo ops of the day were of the crawfish mounds that populate the soil and the raccoon tracks found nearby as they search out their prey.

Mama Jack’s serves a delicious crawfish etouffee which I sampled for lunch.

It was an easy day in the SAG driving biz as folks moved along at a good pace and everyone made it in safely.

Day 35, April 9: Navasota to Cleveland, Tx

72 of 72 miles

Gentle hills, green pastures, and piney forests were the landscape themes today as we passed to the north of Houston. We rode for several miles through Sam Houston State Forest. The wildflower displays were greatly diminished from previous days, with yellow coreopsis seen most frequently.

I had a chance encounter with the Grimes County Sherriff, Mike, this morning when I stopped to shed layers of clothing. Mike and his partner, Dave Cook, happened to be stopped there as well, and they peppered me with questions about all the details of my ride. They were really good sports about posing for pictures. I was thrilled to meet a Sheriff with a cowboy hat.

Sheriff Mike and Dave

Day 34, April 8: Navasota, TX

Rest day

A great catch up day—cut hair, clean bike, chat, eat, sleep. They even have Texas-shaped waffles here, this one flipped to the wrong side, but you get the idea.

Day 33, April 7: La Grange to Navasota, TX

69 of 69 miles

This was the most beautiful of all the rides as wildflowers lined the roadsides and blanketed fields taking center stage, with the Texas bluebonnet the featured performer.

Our appetizers tonight included Texas-shaped tortilla chips. And, fittingly, one of the beer choices was a Tire Bite Golden Ale.

Day 32, April 6: Bastrop to La Grange, TX

44 of 44 miles

The mileage today was short to allow some recovery from yesterday’s long ride. A 12-mile section in the morning wandered through Bastrop and Buescher State Parks where piney forests surrounded the narrow lanes. The hills were short and steep. One, which I walked to avoid toppling over, reached a 17 % grade for a short distance.

The remainder of the ride was on pleasant country lanes where I passed these three curious calves. The smallest one enjoyed licking salt from my fingers.


We arrived in the charming town of La Grange just as lunch hunger pangs began. A local woman recommended Prause’s Meat Market, which has a barbecue operation in the rear of the store. What a find! It was 1 pm and we learned that, unless you arrive before noon, the pickings are slim. I was able to snag the last two ribs—absolute delicacies. The owner took us on a “tour” of the barbecue pit room as he described his daily schedule. He is in the store by 6 am to start the fire, and the meat in on by 6:30. The meat cooks for a couple of hours after which it is slathered with barbecue sauce (not a secret formula, with pickle juice an important ingredient), wrapped in foil, and returned to the coals. It’s ready for the hungry masses by 11 am.

The wildflower displays are becoming more frequent and varied. However, the Texas bluebonnets are definitely center stage.

Boar thistle

Indian paintbrush, goatweed, and evening primrose

Add bluebonnets

And some gaillardia

Day 31, April 5: Blanco to Bastrop, TX

0 of 93 miles—SAG driver

I don’t know which is harder, riding the bike for 93 miles or driving SAG for 93 miles. I was exhausted at the end of the day as were all of the riders. The winds were strong, 20 mph and gusting to 30, sometimes helping, sometimes hindering. There were hills, not of the major variety, but enough to get your attention. Almost all of the riders completed the day. And Robin, determined to ride her first century, continued riding around the block in town until she hit 100 miles. It was after 5 pm and she had been riding for the better part of 10 hours. Yeah, Robin!

I estimate that I put about 250 miles on the SAG wagon as I ferried back and forth between the frontrunners and our slowest rider. Our route took us just to the south of the congestion of Austin through the lovely town of Wimberly, with its restored stone buildings, and Lockhart, the location of the county courthouse, also beautifully preserved.


Wildflower sightings have begun to pick up. I spotted occasional masses of Texas bluebonnets along the road sides as well as evening primroses.

Day 30, April 4: Kerrville to Blanco, TX

70 of 70

It was a delightful ride today through some beautiful country. The landscape is green, the hills are rolling, and the rivers actually have water in them.


The first break was in the tiny town of Comfort where the historic stone buildings have been carefully restored for use by small businesses and as private homes. The next stop was the town of Waring, where the general store was reminiscent of the New England variety.

There wasn’t a whole lot to buy in this general store, but it did have an adjacent large gathering room in which Wednesday night steak dinners are held, usually for a crowd of about 200 locals. Too bad we were there on a Saturday. Despite evidence to the contrary, Elisabeth and Peggy assure me that they were having a grand time relaxing near the entrance to the store.

More beautiful scenery, amidst a reminder that not all Texans welcome visitors. I took the opportunity to relieve myself inside the gate of these friendly folks.

The lunch break

A burro couple

By afternoon, the temperature was well into the 80’s as the miles were racking up. Five of us made a wrong turn at a tricky intersection that, ultimately, led to the first “walking hill” of the trip. We ended up going only about five extra miles but I managed to get overheated and hypoglycemic, a bad combination. I finally made it in to Blanco where, on shaky legs, I tried to collect my thoughts. I headed to the Dairy Queen for air conditioning, cold water, and a small cone for a quick dose of sugar. Once rejuvenated, I headed to our mom and pop motel.

Tonight is Michelle’s last night as our trip leader, so we had a mid-state margarita night. Michelle has been a wonderful presence on this journey, always with words of encouragement. She is a master bike mechanic—I’ve learned so much from her.

Michelle and Jan B.